They were along the lines of "Are you guys all right?"
I read them as I woke up in the dead of night, confused by jetlag and
the lack of context, until I read the American news stories. With little
forewarning, China had surrounded Taiwan with ships, jet fighters and
bombers, and was shooting live ammo into the waters close to the main
island. Many but not all international and domestic flights were cancelled.
With the Taiwanese public long weary of its neighbor's menacing moves,
nearly every news cable channel was running garbage on celebrities and
politicians.
For its part, China channeled Steven Seagal and called the operation
"Justice Mission 2025." It's also an odd title considering that move came so
late in the year, Dec. 29th. China Daily, a state organ of the People's
Republic, said the operation was "to combat 'Taiwan independence'
separatist activities and external interference."
China had been fuming since November when Japanese Prime
Minister Sanae Takaichi said Chinese military force against Taiwan would
threaten Japan. Takaichi's remarks seemed to imply that Japan might help
defend Taiwan, a former Japanese colony, against an assault from Beijing.
Also, Takaichi is a woman, which rankles the current misogynistic mentality
of Chinese Communist Party.
Then in December, Taiwan agreed to its largest-ever arms package
purchase—$11 billion—from the United States. The sale "exposes
Washington's reckless disregard for the one-China principle and the political foundations of China-U.S. relations," China Daily noted on Dec. 19. Ten
days later, "Justice Mission 2025,
" without Seagal, was a go.
We had landed in Taiwan on Dec. 26, after a 20-hour flight with a
layover in Seattle, so before the emails I wasn't aware that China's war
games were playing out in real-time American media. I know from
experience that skeleton crews, comprising of those who lacked the seniority
to get time off, handle newsrooms in the week between Christmas and New
Year's. It's typically a slow news week, so Chinese military moves may have
gotten a lot more play than usual. The real insider report might be that the
whole charade was really a temporary stimulus to address the near-20%
unemployment rate among Chinese youth.
After all, China's supposed safeguarding of Taiwan failed to stop the
real invasion—of tourists! Yes, the mission did cause the delay and
cancellation of incoming and in-country flights, but people from all over the
world were already on the ground and on the move.
My wife and I have been to Taiwan a number of times, but this trip
was the first time we were taking our son. In the planning stages we stressed
over what he needed to see, and what he needed to know. We decided that
that would make for an unnecessarily harrowing trip. At least this time, we
thought, let's just leisurely eat, shop, and hang out. Give the kid some good
memories of one of his ancestral homelands.
If we were wary about anything before the trip, it was due to a deadly
incident about a week before we left. A mentally unstable man wearing body
armor had entered Taipei's main subway station, threw smoke grenades, and
began stabbing people. His rampage spilled out into the street, leaving three
dead and 11 injured. On the run from police, he fell off the roof of adepartment store and died after falling to the sidewalk. Later, in front of
news cameras, the killer's elderly parents apologized to the victims, knelt on
the ground, and bowed.
There have been similar attacks in Taiwan in the past, but still my
wife and I knew the country was one of the safest to visit, and certainly more
safe than our hometown of New York, America's shining jewel.
During one stroll through Taipei, we went through the trendy
Zhongshan shopping district, ground zero of where the tragedy unfolded,
and observed the memorials set up, which stood in sharp contrast with a
Disney-funded mini park set up to promote Zootopia 2 that included a giant
Christmas tree, and other stations for photo ops with the animal characters
from the film.
The place was teeming with tourists, foreigners and Taiwanese alike.
Taiwan may not be a majority Christian nation, but it is a big-time
Christmas nation. You can't go a block in December without seeing pictures
of Santa drinking boba tea.
Filled with a certain nondenominational holiday spirit, we decided to
make the trip to super-touristy Jioufen on what would be the day "Justice
Mission 2025" launched.
For the unfamiliar, here are a few things to know about Jioufen. It's
about a 40-minute cab ride northeast from the center of Taipei. It's long been
rumored to be the inspiration for the setting of the beloved anime Spirited
Away. The film's creator Hayao Miyazaki has denied this, but the
resemblance is undeniable. Jioufen is an old gold-mining town on a cliffside
with a main walk of several hundred stone steps that rise at a more than 45-
degree angle through the center of the quaint town. Every other building is ateahouse. At night, when red lanterns spookily light the walk, Jioufen is
probably one of the most Instagrammable places in East Asia.
Unfortunately, Jioufen's main steps can become dangerously
overcrowded late in the day.
I've transferred trains at Times Square during rush hour. I've seen
Springsteen at the Garden. I've seen playoff games between the Devils and
the Rangers, ones where cadres of women charge into the men's restrooms
en masse because the wait at the women's restrooms had become intolerable.
Yet I've never been in a group of people as packed in as when we were
trying to go down the stairs at Jioufen. Half the crowd was new arrivals
trying go up, and the other half were trying to catch a ride back to Taipei.
People in all languages cried out in resignation. We moved down maybe
three steps a minute.
Also, for the first time in Taiwan, I was aware someone was trying to
pickpocket me. I felt a hand against my backside. Not the affectionate
spousal touch, but a nuanced frisking of my back pockets. I managed to turn
my head and caught sight of someone with a baseball cap pulled low
slipping away through the crowd, contorting like an octopus.
A few hours later, safe at our hotel, I read the "Are you guys all
right?" emails. As I processed what our friends were talking about, I became
as blasé as the rest of Taiwan.
My thinking is this. Since the major hostilities of the Chinese civil
war ended in 1949 with the Nationalists decamping to Taiwan, the two sides
of the strait have been in a cat-and-mouse game that has occasional flare-ups
and casualties. So China sends ships and planes over the median line of the
Taiwan Strait. That's all drums and gongs, anyway.
I would really be worried if the People's Republic went silent on
condemning "Taiwan authorities" seeking independence, and withheld
military exercises, because that perceived lull might mean China's gearing
up for the real thing.
***
Ed Lin is a journalist by training and an all-around stand-up kinda guy. He’s the author of several books: Waylaid, his literary debut, and his Robert Chow crime series, set in 1970s Manhattan Chinatown: This Is a Bust, Snakes Can’t Run, and One Red Bastard. Lin, who is of Taiwanese and Chinese descent, is the first author to win three Asian American Literary Awards. Lin lives in New York with his wife, actress Cindy Cheun.
Ed Lin’s big-hearted, eye-opening fifth installment in the fan-favorite Taipei Night Market series, The Dead Can't Make a Living, will be out this month. Jing-nan, the owner of the most popular food stand in Taipei’s world-famous Shilin night market, is hauling trash after a successful evening of hawking Taiwanese delicacies to tourists when he finds a corpse propped up against the dumpsters. The dead man turns out to be Juan Ramos, a Philippine national who came to Taiwan for a job at a massive ZHD food processing plant.
